The romance of buying antique engagement ring settings is alluring. However, before you buy an antique engagement ring read these shopping tips so you can put the romance aside and buy a ring that is truly worth the investment and will make you happy for years to come.#1 Ring ConditionAs beautiful as those antique ring settings are, you need to take a step back and take a good look at what you are actually buying. For example, that 1966 Mustang GT you have always dreamed of owning might look great, but its not the car you want to drive everyday. Same with an engagement ring, everyday wear and tear will take its toll on any ring, but no more so than an antique ring in poor condition. Before you buy look for these tell tale signs of wear and tear:
- Worn Shank - This can be an indicator that the band is weakening.
- Cracked Shank - This will need to be addressed immediately as you can not wear a broken ring.
- Discolored Metal At The Base of The Shank - A shadow in the metal color, or a bump at the base of the ring is an indication the ring has been sized. This is a solder mark. Sizing occasionally is OK, but excessive sizing is not good for the structural integrity of the shank.
- Worn Prongs - The prong is the only thing holding and protecting your diamond. If you have worn prongs be sure to get them re-tipped immediately.
- Cracked Prongs - A cracked prong is unsafe, be sure to have it repaired immediately.
- Missing Stones - Look closely at the details for missing side stones. If the previous owner did not take time to replace them, you will want to consider what else they may have neglected.
- Prongs Not On Stone - If the prong is not on the stone it is not holding the stone. Get this repaired immediately.
- Thin Metal - A lifetime of wear can thin and weaken your ring shank. If your shank is showing signs of wear you will want to replace it immediately by having the ring "reshanked."
#2 Form Over FunctionThink about your daily routine, what you do for work, what hobbies you have, etc. Assessing your lifestyle will clue you into what type of engagement ring is right for you. If you are a dog training and wilderness hiking bride, an antique ring may not be the best choice. You may want to consider an antique style engagement ring that will give you the look you want but with the added strength and protection of a new setting.#3 Manufacturing Method UsedWhen you start looking closely at different antique rings and the designer's who made them you will start to see a pattern. Early 20th century designers, like Jabel, use a die struck method to create their jewelry. This creates an undeniably stronger engagement setting compared to today's more popular cast method. However, even among die struck jewelers there is still a difference in construction that will contribute to the long term condition of your engagement ring. Here is a great diagram from an early 1925 Jabel catalog to explain the difference.
#4 Finding A Matching Wedding BandFinding an exact matching wedding band is tricky when you purchase a genuine antique ring setting. Often times the wedding bands are just not available. In that case you will be forced to make a decision
- Option 1: Buy An Antique Wedding Band regardless of whether the rings will match. This will carry your antique style, but the match may not be perfect and you will want to consider the existence of wear and tear again.
- Option 2: Buy A Reproduction Antique Wedding Band to match the aesthetics of your ring. The match may not be perfect but you should be able to find wedding bands with enough similarities to make it look cohesive
- Option 3: Design Your Own Wedding Band using CADCAM technology. Your local jeweler can work with jewelry manufacturers to create an exact matching band in fit, scale, and embellishments. However, this can be a more costly and time consuming process. If you want to design your own wedding band, be sure to leave extra time.
Email us to find a local Jabel jeweler at info@jabel.com