Image By Karissa D.
Engagement rings are a emotional purchase and its easy to get caught up in the romance of the moment; who wore this ring, how did he propose, did they grow old and gray together, etc. However, buying an engagement ring is also a MAJOR financial investment. Its important to shop smart and take a good look at what you are buying when considering antique ring settings.A Lifetime of WearIf you decide to shop for antique ring settings be careful of wear and tear. A lifetime of activities can wreck havoc on prongs, shanks, and relief details. Everything from hand washing to cleaning can take away from the durability of a ring, 80 years down the road, and you have some serious problems to contend with. Here is a check list to help you take an honest look at the antique ring setting you are hoping to buy:
- Return Policy - If you find an antique ring setting you 'MUST have,' ask your local jeweler for help and before you commit to buying it make sure that they give it their stamp of approval.
- Prongs - Look closely, do the prongs fully cover the stone(s), are they touching the stones, are there any cracks, breaks, on nicks in the prongs. The prong is the only thing holding your stone in place, when its gone so is your stone. Have a reliable local jeweler check and make sure they are in good condition, if not, ask if the ring can be retipped.
- Shanks - Cracks and breaks in the shank, or band, of your ring are obvious, but keep an eye out for shadows or color variations near the base of the band, as they may indicate sizing, or repairs to the shank. A ring sizing here and there is not uncommon, but after too many it may jeopardize the overall strength of your ring.
- Details - After years of wear often the details are often lost; including engraving, millgraining, and texture. Trying to find a ring made by die striking, where the details can be restored, and made by a manufacturer, who is still in business to do the proper repairs, is key. Check out the amazing ring restoration Jabel completed below.
The Importance of Die Struck RingsToday, we more commonly relate the term die struck to industrial manufacturing or the die cut paper shapes you buy at the craft store, but this was once a popular form of jewelry making. It has been replaced with the cheaper and more readily available cast method of jewelry making, but really, there is no comparing. Die struck jewelry creates a superior ring that is truly of heirloom quality. The impeccable strength means unsurpassed quality that will hold up to the test of times.
Not All Die Struck Jewelry Is Created EqualWhen die struck jewelry was at its peak, Jabel was striking and assembling jewelry in a unique manner that added extra strength and durability to an already strong piece of metal. Yes, die struck jewelry can actually be stronger, just strike and assemble it in the right way. The following diagram shows how Jabel limited the amount of solder points. Why? Solder points are a source of weakness in any ring. Therefore, the less solder points the stronger the setting.
A Smart AlternativeIf you find a ring you absolutely love, but its in either the wrong metal, ring size, or is simply to worn out consider on of two options:
- "Design Your Own Engagement Ring" with CAD/CAM technology based on an antique ring setting you love.
- Purchase a similar antique style engagement ring that has the characteristics you love but with the strength and piece of mind a new setting will provide.
Email us to find a local Jabel jeweler at info@jabel.com